Day #13. Deal to Ramsgate.

              Sallied forth from Deal seafront at 7.30am, into pouring rain and high winds, heading north along the coast, with the storm hitting on my left side. One of those days, when even the best rain gear is ineffectual. Had planned to reach Margate today, another 6 kms. to the north, but with sluices of cold water down my neck, came to the conclusion that discretion remains the better part of valour and that Ramsgate would suffice as a harbour from the storm.

            Spent an interesting hour with guest house owner Tony, looking at all the Elvis artifacts that he has displayed in his basement Elvis museum. Never know what a humble B & B owner would want to have been in another life. Just hope that he is equally generous when it comes to switching on the heating at 5.00pm, so that my gear may be dry and wearable tomorrow. Local weather forecast on the BBC announces several pleasant spring like days to follow the storm. I won't argue with that.
             Interesting observation. British bath tubs are about a foot longer than the standard north American model and about 6 inches narrower. An agreeable variance for this six foot skinny gent, however the epidemic of obesity seems to have spread to this side of the Atlantic also, so some of these English folks may be in danger of becoming wedged into their narrow tubs.
           As I navigate the various towns, I continually seek re-confirmation from locals that I am in fact, headed in the right direction. Continually surprised that people say they have not got the foggiest idea of the location of the next town to them, (maybe my appearance has something to do with it) or else, assure me quite seriously, that it is not possible to reach there on foot---what did their antecedents do before there were cars?

20.7 Kms. walked today per pedometer: Cumulative kms covered: 312.4
Hours of walking today including rest stops: 4.75
Type of accommodation: Guest house B & B.
Cost of bed & breakfast: pounds. 30.00

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Day #12 Folkestone to Deal, Kent.

        Began the walk today at an earnest 6.45am, not before being reprimanded by the hotel keeper for making a mark on his posh carpet with my buggy. Straight out of Folkestone and up a long and steep (14%) hill, one of two I had to tackle, the other being going out of Dover. Effectively the urban areas of these coastal towns are at sea level, but the miles between them are along the tops of the famous White Cliffs. It was clear and dry today, albeit rather cold, with a strong wind pushing me along from the west as I walked eastwards. Not difficult to make out the cliffs of the French coast on the other side of the  English Channel. This part of England is famous for being 1940 'Battle of Britain' country, when the 'few' fought in the skies and saved the country. I stopped off at the Battle of Britain museum just out-side Dover, and was greatly moved by the beautiful  plaque there  --hard to believe that so many of the fallen young Spitfire pilots were only 20 years of age....have to admit being moved to a few tears.
         Today marked a minor achievement in terms of progress for the walk, in that after Dover the coast turns generally northwards, and will continue so for me, until I reach the Scottish border at Berwick upon Tweed.
        Thanks Nigel for so hospitably inviting me, as I trudged past your door, into your home just outside Deal and offering that much appreciated cup of tea.

See todays pictures on Flickr  "traveller6666"

33.1 Kms. walked today per pedometer: Cumulative kms covered:  291.7
9.5 hours of walking today including rest stops.
Type of accommodation: Channel View Hotel.
Cost of bed & breakfast: pounds. 40.00

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A cold, but sunny walk along the dike....

A Marrello tower

        Cracking the velvet curtains open at 6.30am,  I was delighted to note pools of dryness on the paving stones outside. After breakfasting heartily on ham and two eggs, retook the A 258 highway outside the hotel, with conditions improving rapidly, but considerable colder than yesterday. Gone was the rather desolate Romney Marsh, replaced by more pastoral agricultural landscapes. Even the sheep looked more contented than the souls I passed in the heavy rain yesterday. Soon came up to the extensive sea wall defenses project that has been built in this region to protect both the low lying residential areas and the soft chalk (white) cliffs. The walk along the top of the dike is on a path-way almost wide enough to accommodate vehicles and being free of traffic I was able to make steady progress towards Folkestone. Evident in this region that has faced many times threatened and actual invasions from Europe, are the fortifications that dot the landscape. My photograph today is is one of the series of Marrello (architect's name?) Towers built in the early 1800's to thwart the  Napoleonic threat. The plaque informed me that each tower was fitted with a cannon able to hurl a lead ball up to1 mile. Accurate??
The Channel Tunnel entrance is just north of Folkestone, although I did not detour to see it.

21.8 Kms. walked today per pedometer: Cumulative kms covered: 258.6
Hours of walking today including rest stops: 5.0
Type of accommodation: Chandos Guest House.
Cost of bed & breakfast: pounds. 22.50



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Day # 9 Eastbourne to Hastings.

        

Rain swept Eastbourne sea-front.

     Day # 9     Mechanical problems.     

  

         A grey start to the day. Leaving the bed and breakfast hotel at 6.30pm I was able to escape the dreaded full English breakfast of bacon, eggs, bangers and fried bread, all oozing in cooking oil. The locals seem to thrive on it, but it’s not easy for others to take, especially as lunch and dinner offerings seem to also revolve around versions of fish & chips with something. Find myself buying prepared salads at the local super market so as to achieve some semblance of dietary balance. 

       Achieved the targeted 10 kms by 10am, when there was a distinct ppppht from the left tire of my trusty jogger. There I was stranded, immobile, dead in the water, on high-land, 10 miles from my days destination of Hastings. Realizing that I would likely damage the wheel rim if the tube was not repaired/ repaced pronto, I decided to take help from the passing 99A double-decker omnibus, dutifully plying it’s route to Hastings and coastal points east.

      The local town information office was quickly able to direct me to Frank’s cycle repair emporium and with in 40 minutes I was mobile again. Able to locate accommodation for the night on the east end of the sea-front marine promenade, positioning me for a rapid start tomorrow towards Folkestone.

      February is the season to repair and re-paint tourist accommodation, ready for the summer tourist throngs that will descend. As a result, some establishments are closed down for the month, others reek of paint and have wet paint & sticky window ledges.

The afternoon saw clear skies, increasing temperatures up to 10C., the first sun shine seen for a number of days. Several hardy types even doffed their shoes for a quick paddle in the icy sea-water!

       Should, of course, make brief reference to the historic1066 Battle of Hastings, when those Normans invaded and at the conclusion of a battle at (the nearby village of) Battle, the course of history, was irrevocably changed.                                 

16 kms walk plus 16 kms bus. 203.4 cumulative kms covered:
Hours of walking today including rest stops: 5
Type of accommodation: Foyles sea-front B & B.
Cost of bed & breakfast: 30.00  pounds.

Day # 10 Hastings to New Romney.

Terraced houses in Hastings.

     Crossed the starting line at a respectable 8.00am under grey skies, that at least were kind enough to hold their excess dripping humidity for the first part of the day.  From sea level at Hastings, I was catapulted onto a seemingly endless steep hill that provided excellent views of the south Sussex shoreline. Thereafter, it was a gradual descent in ever worsening weather, into the ancient Cinque Ports town of Rye. Not exactly sure of the meaning of the nomenclature "Cinque Ports", but believe that it was a special medieval status that was proffered by the monarch to enable them to be self governing in respect to administration & to the collection of taxes.
     Road-side sandwich watched over by 50 very bedraggled sheep, before launching into the semi desolate region known as the Romney Marsh. I must have appeared pretty bedraggled myself, as I attracted the attention of three cars (including a Kent Constabulary patrol car) that offered me a ride to the next town. Really touched at the generosity and concern shown to a stranger struggling along in heavy rain.
As I was away from an internet connection at yesterdays stop-over, I drafted my entry into 'Word', where it currently resides. Unfortunately, I have not been able to cut and paste using this new Acer note book.Where is my highly computer literate 16 year old daughter when her dad really needs her? So you may, or not, get yesterday's entry.

33.4 Kms. walked today per pedometer: 236.8 cumulative kms covered:
Hours of walking today including rest stops: 9.0
Type of accommodation:hotel B & B.
Cost of bed & breakfast:  40.00 pounds.

Taming the 7 Sisters....

Day # 7.  Brighton to Eastbourne.

The toughest day so far. Pouring rain most of the day, slowing only after 3.00pm to allow the temperature to drop to about one degree with strong winds from the north—on my left side, as I headed east along my curvy, twisty friend, the A 256. Doesn’t sound too tough, when sitting in a warm room, toasting toes before a log fire. Yours truly was up on the heights of the South Downs as they terminate in the form of the famous white cliffs along the English Channel. In fact, what made it so challenging for me, apart from the constant heavy rain, were the three ascents of 12% gradient hills that rose from sea level, to repeat half an hour later for the next cliff. Only received, or at least noticed, one shaken fist from an irate, driver forced to slow on the narrow twisting highway so as to allow my stately (meaning SLOW) progress on the gradients.

That completes the first 7 days of the walk. Totalling 187 kms, about 109 miles for the unilingual. Pleased with this progress and well ahead, of where I thought that I would be at the end of the first week, especially given all the precipitation that certainly curtails mileage. During my preparation, I was encouraged by my internet friends, long distance walkers all, not to over do it on early stages of the venture. For that reason, I have decided to take a days rest tomorrow, Tuesday, here in Eastbourne, which appears, as I descended into it through the rain, to be a very pleasant large town. Time to do some laundry and other housekeeping.

35.2 Kms. walked today, per pedometer: Cumulative  187.4 kms covered:
Hours of walking today including rest stops: 7 3/4
Type of accommodation: Savoy Hotel Guest house.
Cost of bed & breakfast:  30.00 pounds.

A very soggy day for the "to be forgotten file"

Day #6 Littlehampton to Brighton.

Emerged from my B & B cocoon of warmth and rest at 7.10 am., just as the first light appeared straight into

heavy and unmitigating rain. Thought there was an old adage somewhere about 'red sky at night, meaning fair conditions next day---well it ain't always so mate. However, did appreciate the almost total absence of traffic, especially the heavy truck transport. Progressed eastwards along the A259 (main coastal road) that is to be my companion for the next few days. Again, surprised how infrequently I actually viewed the English Channel despite it's proximity. Astounded to see several hardy souls out in the very rough water at the end of a para surfing tow. It was so cold that there were even occasional traces of ice in the precipitation.  A strong wind blowing almost continuously, but luckily it was out of the west and actually pushed me along.
Note on the traffic flow in the UK. Over the years,almost all traffic lights and stop signs have been removed and replaced  with a range of different size roundabout arrangements from mini to massive rotations. Everyone proceeds without actually stopping, just making sure that they cede priority to any vehicle already in the rotation ie: coming from their right. Certainly it all seems to operate very effectively and effectively speeds up the flow.
This part of coastal Sussex is very densely built-up from both the industrial and residential standpoints and did not appear particularly alluring to this soggy hiker. Pity that structures have been permitted on the ocean side of the highway thus effectively blocking possibly great sea-views---didn't they do the same thing in Toronto along the shore of Lake Ontario.

32.3 Kms. walked today per pedometer: Cumulative kms covered: 152.2
Hours of walking today including rest stops:  9.0
Type of accommodation: Tourist hotel B & B.
Cost of bed & breakfast: 30.00 pounds.
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Leg muscles settling down....

Day # 5.   Chichester to Littlehampton.

           An easy 20k. walk today in bright sunshine. Roads heavily traveled today, apparently with Londoners seizing the opportunity to enjoy a day away from the 'big smoke' while the February weather cooperates. Generally flat countryside enabled quite rapid walking progress. The leg muscle pains of the first couple of days have abated and I actually enjoyed a gentle stroll around Littlehampton this evening. On a jaunt such as this, one does tend to become somewhat fixated on the health status and well being of those two bony appendages south of the main body mass.           Spent an interesting half hour with Isaac, a middle aged regular at local pub around the corner from today's B & B. Apparently Isaac has just 'purchased' himself a wife from India. Only seen the photos so far of the bride. It seems that this has all been handled by a broker in New Delhi. Isaac takes "delivery' in a couple weeks time. He is still trying to work out how he going to explain his new status to his 5 grown up children! Good luck Isaac.

20 Kms. walked today per pedometer: Cumulative kms covered: 120.7
Hours of walking today including rest stops: 6.0
Type of accommodation: Tourist hotel
Cost of bed & breakfast: pounds. 30.00. no breakfast.
In 2008 Trillium had over 700,000 patient visits. Trillium’s doctors and nurses are ‘Giving 110%’ to patients….will you? Go to www.trilliumhealthcentrefoundation.org and donate now!

Progressing eastwards.....

Day # 3.  Cowes IOW to Portsmouth.

An easy day walking today in terms of distance, but several extended up and down hill sections that sap the energy in the early stages of this walk. I am sure that the leg muscles will only strengthen as the miles roll by. Came off the island on the second ferry ride in two days. This is a highly organized operation, on large vessels that seemed to be operating less than 25% full and yet offerinng 30 minute service this off-season. A fellow passenger informed me that the ferry company had just been purchased by the Australian teachers' pension fund. Sure that they will tighten things up.

Once again, spells of heavy rain. Apologize to readers if this seems to be the fixation of this long-distance walker, but it does seem to make the difference between a pleasant and a less than pleasant day. If it just poured non-stop it might be easier, instead of these alternating sunshine & downpours in 15 minute spurts.

Can’t, fail to notice just how effective the local authorities are in terms of charging revenue enhancing fees for just about any service. Parking is even charged in the supermarket parking lot, in the parks, anywhere except in your own homes driveway. What about a fee for using the sidewalk!?

While it may seem a little inconsequential, happy to inform all, that the REAL cup of tea is alive and well and living in England. No longer threepence a cup----more like 1.50 pounds at the corner restaurant. But have to say that it is a REAL  cup of tea--full of flavour and almost intoxicating.

Portsmouth, population 455,000, referred to locally as ‘Pompey’, the only UK city that is surrounded by water on three sides. Home of the Royal Navy. Monuments to the Empire abound on almost every street corner. Unfortunately did not see today one of the nuclear submarines entering or leaving port.

Day #4    Portsmouth to Chichester.

A magnificent day for walking, bright sunshine all the way thru till 4.00pm, and then spoiled with a short shower. Luckily was able to dodge that while room hunting in Chichester.

Rode the last ferry for awhile today, crossing over from Portsmouth onto the small Isle of Hayling. A small pedestrian and bikes only affair the ferry that is!. Anyway, it was punctual &  exactly on crossing schedule, plus I was allowed as 60+, to travel for only one pound (special price on Fridays!)

Certainly discovering the truism that the long-distance road walkers (of a certain age) day can be broken into three segments---#1  Euphoria and excitement,  especially if the first 10 kms are completed,  before 10am..  #2   Plodding mode for the next 10kms, as the legs mellow to the rhythm.   #3  Painful. Just looking for the effort to cease and to locate a resting spot before the dark.

Pleasant rolling country-side, and several extensive forests just to the north of the coast known geographically as the ‘South Downs’. Interestingly, although this is meant to be a coastal walk, I have only seen the sea on two three occasions around the ferry crossings. This should remedy soon, as I move nearer to the famous coastal towns, just east of here.

Chichester is a real gem with much of the evidence of the Roman occupation still to  be seen including the city wall. Those Italian guys even had the good sense to layout the city on a N, S, E & West grid system. Question: why was n’t the layout copied into the other British town  designs, which are usually a maze of confusing turns and twists.

Welcome back sunshine....

Lymington to Cowes, Isle of Wight.

         What a different world it is when it's sunny...everyone smiles and the miles seem to roll by so much faster. Think you can see what is important to the long-distance road walker. Rolling and attractive countryside. Observed a warning to motorist to avoid crossing sea otters.

         The holiday crowds have not yet arrived here yet, or the mid week sailing types in their multi- million pound boats. Fine with me.

Hampered by a late start this morning...it was either that or miss a full size English breakfast. Would like to aim for that 10 before 10. That is, 10 kms before 10.00am. Seems like a great formula to break the back of a days walking while one is still bright eyed and optimistic and before the leg muscles start to stiffen.
26 Kms. walked today per pedometer: Cumulative kms covered: 59
Hours of walking today including rest stops: 7.00
Type of accommodation:  Restaurant/ plus B& B operation.
Cost of bed & breakfast: Pounds.  25.00

30 kms.---15k in POURING rain.....

Begin Bournemouth and end at Lymington.

Well the rubber hit the road today, both in terms of distance and a very early baptism to the joys of becoming thoroughly wet through. I had vowed that my early distances would be some what less, slowly buildings when my legs and general fitness levels move up. However, my walking,per my pedometer, distances were greater than Google indicate in their beta walking maps. I will watch this over the next while and try and come to a conclusion as which is accurate.
I left Bournemouth  in the dawn light in intermittent drizzle. This gradually became heavier as the day wore on, until just after noon, it was a full fledged downpour. With lack of local route knowledge I did follow several traffic detours, and realized only after that a quick walk thru a pedestrian promenade and  I could likely have missed 10 -15 minutes of foot slogging.
Lymington is the ferry crossing point for to the west end of the Isle of Wight  (IOW). Actually, to go over to I O W is the direct and shortest route to be traveling eastwards at this point.
Note how the cars have really increased in size in the UK, without a similar increase in road width, at least on my major road today. Certainly that it appears there are no shortage of folks driving SUV,s and top end Mercedes. Gas prices are in the $2.00/L area.
Planned walking distances should be shorter tomorrow as I have couple of 'postioning' days....my feet  will welcome any moderation.

40.3 Kms. walked today, per pedometer: Cumulative kms covered:
Hours of walking today including rest stops:  8.75
Type of accommodation:  Bed & breakfast
Cost of bed & breakfast: Pounds. 40.00

Arrived safely at the starting post....

              After a brief detour via a rainy Manchester that created a 5 hour flight arrival delay, arrived safely in

Gatwick bus.

London/Gatwick, connecting to an express bus for the 2 hour ride to the coast.at Bournemouth. All equipment arrived in good order, except for a badly smashed up plastic eating plate! Currently concentrating hard on looking  to my right so as to avoid all these folk who do insist on driving on the left! Weather is mild and the threatening skies have not produced too much liquid so far. All lined up to commence tomorrow at 7.00am for the first days walking.
Type of accommodation: Hotel near seafront.
Cost of bed Only:    22.50 pounds.
In 2008 Trillium had over 700,000 patient visits. Trillium’s doctors and nurses are ‘Giving 110%’ to patients….will you? Go towww.trilliumhealthcentrefoundation.org and donate now!

These boots are made for walking.....

These boots are made for walking, and that's just what they'll do

One of these days these boots are gonna walk all over you.
You keep lying, when you oughta be truthin'
and you keep losin' when you oughta not bet.
You keep samin' when you oughta be changin'.
Now what's right is right, but you ain't been right yet.
These boots are made for walking, and that's just what they'll do
One of these days these boots are gonna walk all over you.
Thanks.... Nancy Sinatra     c. 1966

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